So much beauty. A cool breeze. A timeless pagota.— at Kawaguchiko, Fuji, Japan.
works of genious.
Toward the end of Harold Norse’s literary memoir,
he writes, “Years later in Athens, I heard that a group of painters in Paris,
calling themselves Cosmographers, had founded a school based on my method. I immediately christened it “Bidet Art.” After all, as an innovator I’d have been ungrateful to
the part played in my art by this toilet appliance, which possessed the
symbolic significance the urinal had for Marcel Duchamp; furthermore the bidet had produced had produced cosmic effects….”
Throughout our trip to Japan, I’ve felt those
cosmic effects.
I told Caroline about Norse’s society.
“I agree wholeheartedly,” she agreed.
Another member of the society.
Europeans understand.
But Americans are brutes; our toilets can’t compare.
Even
the train stations here have these porcelain goddesses.
It’s
the little differences in Japan, my
friend Zack told me before we left.
The
trip is going well.
I’ve
only compared Caroline to the Nazis once.
But
we still have three weeks, she reminds
me.
On our way to Mt Fuji we ran into a family traveling
from Puerto Rico.
“We
couldn’t find you,” he says.
They
missed the meetup for the group.
“I
guess they don’t get the souvenir fan,” notes the teenager.
But
they have extras.
Their
mind is on other things.
They
are having a
revolution Puerto Rico.
Activists
in Hong Kong are rising and so are the police.
Fascism
is spreading from the US to
England.
“It feels like Thunder at Twilight:Vienna
1913/1914,” notes Caroline.
“Can
you snap a photo for us,” our friend asks after we’d hiked up past a pagoda,,
398 steps up.
“Trump
sucks on three…”
We
chat a few more minutes.
“What’s
going on in Iran,” I asked after he tells me he is in the military in Hawaii.
“I
don’t know. I think its going to be World War Three. The military is pushing for it.”
“Big
business.”
“Yes,
big business.”
In
Japan, they are acutely aware of the implications of these kinds of moments.
Much of Tokyo burned during WWII.
“Why
can’t we live in harmony?” wonders our tour guide, reflecting on growing up in post-war Japan.
We
love Japan.
The
street style.
The
bidets.
The
people hanging out after work at
restaurants.
Very
few people in yoga pants.
Like
New York, everyone is on their phones.
Lots
and lots of people on their phones.
Even less people reading on the trains.
The
only person I’ve seen reading was a homeless man, sitting on the street with
newspaper for shoes.
Like
the US, the baby boomers are dying off
and there are less young people to support them.
The
young people here are running around in Lolita gothic outfits and kimonos,
business attire and manga fashion.
Pop
genius.
“Japan
is made up of four islands,” notes our tour guide.
One
tenth of the population of the 127 million live in Tokyo,
Where
4 million people move through the Shinjuku
subway station a day.
In
the 15-20 second crosswalk at Shibuya, 2000 people cross through the street.
In
order of fear, Japanese worry about:
Earthquakes
Fire
Lightning
And
fathers.
“We’re looking for harmony in the global era,” she
explains, referring to the seven gods.
“The
person who has not climbed Fuji is a fool.
The person who has climbed it twice is an even bigger fool.”
Up
we walk to look at Fuji from Arakurayama Sengen Park, with the Cheito Pagoda in the distance.
A
breeze passes, trees, a little peace, a
moment of calm, feeling like pilgrims again.
We
spend the afternoon making our way around the mountain, walking, napping, reading.
The Saiko Lyashi no Sato Nenba is a settlement
of thatched houses destroyed by mudslide in 1966 and rebuilt as it once was.
In
the forest.
Its
tree are works of art.
So
is the glass work.
The
thatched roofs.
On
the way back to Tokyo, I read Norse thinking about friendships and creativity.
He
writes about fifty years of friends, sex and explorations.
Often
looking at Po Chu’s writings about friendship:
This is what friends do.
Its
what we are doing.
In
Finishing our day, we find a pub serving gyoza and beer
in Shinjuku.
“It
was the best part of my day,” notes
Caroline on the way home.
A
cosmic feeling, a little peace for a
moment.
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