Wednesday, September 2, 2015

Finding New Stories from Azofra to Santa Domingo on the way to Santiago de Compostella, #Camino2015, Log #4

Every day, the Camino opens spaces for new stories, connecting people and storytellers through time and space.  Day four, we walked from Azofra to Domingo de la Calzada, 15.1 k.

 Its an odd walk through fields and past Ciruena, where we get a snack at an oddly located golf club. Some hikers order in Spanish; others make very little effort at trying to learn any Spanish, loudly ordering in English.

Signs along the way declare 594, 591, 576 k to Santiago.  “Stop reminding us,” notes some graffiti at one.

The day is long, but short as a dream. There are also fleeting moments of beauty in the landscape and  the cheers from observers.

“Que valliente!”

“Bonn Camino!”

The cyclists zoom by.

I think of Christ’s transubstantiation where the patron saint of the Camino, St James, was said be on hand. Odd to think of anyone being there, even in the story. But i find the thought of being there, even in the story, moving.  As an ever sprawling narrative, these stories feel compelling.  Walking, we are all invited in. 

St James 

Life offers telling moments of illumination, but most are short and fleeting.

There’s so much feeling \ on the road.

On the hill outside of San Domingo, our friend from Australia from the first day , walks into a pasture, stops, looks out and lets out a scream, standing out there for a long time.

“Who needs therapy when you have the Camino?” she notes passing us as we rest at the crossroads, waiting for mom and number one (our nine year old).  The town in sight, her good mood seemed to be back.  The giants of the road and our moods vanquished for now. Number two sings as we stroll into town.

“756 k of Camino to walk, 756 k to walk.  Pass one k…” she serenades us to the tune of 101 bottles of beer on the wall.

At Santa Domingo, we stay at the Parador de Sto, at the plaza outside of the Cathedral.  Lunch on the street was grand. The Cathedral full of majesty.  We recall the story of the chicken said to come alive in honor of the local hero thought to be dead. “If he’s alive then so is that chicken” declared the mayor, only to watch the chicken he was about to cook for dinner come alive and start squawking.

The chicken in the Cathedral is supposed to cry when you enter if you are going to have a good Camino.

Not a peep when we enter. But that’s ok.  These stories offer some more solace than others.

Walking through the Cathedral, I think of my mom, who’s always had us go see these spaces when we travel together. I wonder about all the objects and the lives of the people who made this medieval site.  The art of the 12th century cathedral reminds me of a lost world.  These are just glimpses that far away space and time. 

Its majestic enough just being  here wandering through the spaces along the trail, between the countryside and the medieval villages.

Everyone is out trying to find something real within the history of the present, connecting pasts and futures and our ever flowing now.

The following are pictures of our journey.

Sites and scenes of a great day of dancing, hiking, exploring countryside and medieval villages, along the Camino de Santiago.

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