Shortly
before he died, Gore Vidal left Ravello, a small town 365 meters above the
Tyrrhenian Sea by Italy’s Amalfi Coast, where he lived for years and years. He
called it his “perch” for observing the
US. With cliffside gardens and majestic
blue waters, we stayed just down the road, just two k from Amalfi. We’ve been
staying nearby for three days.
Swimming all day,
jumping between the pool and dips in the Tyrrhenian Sea, the small waterfall,
making our way back to sleep on beach chairs and then back to the pool and the
sea, reading, thinking and floating, eating with the light of the moon,
witching between Elena Ferrante and William Styron novels, cheering on the
activists in the US, from our perch on the Amalfi.
Rather than drive, we
got a ride to the small resort of Amalfi, once capital
of its own maritime republic.
Michaelangelo, our amicable guide, walked us
through the town telling stories of disasters and Tsunami which ripped through
the place. In 1343, an earthquake sent water roaring, along a Southwest gale
over the coast from Naples to Amalfi, destroying ships and ports along the
coast. I will never forget the January 1987 wave which ripped across the coast,
tearing everything in its sight, noted Michaelangelo.
I wanted you to see the other Amalfi, the other
face behind the tourist facade, the Cathedral and the Paradise Cloisters.
Some of the guide books recall Hercules and a Nymph
he was chasing that formed the name for the city. But its nothing. The town was founded by the Romans, subject
to pirates, 6th century barbarian invasions. Its people moved up into the hills, with
steps, separating them from the invading pirates, with many steps, At Malfi, is
Amalfi.
Michaelangelo walked us up and around the town,
showing us tiles, on our way through the Arabic Quarter, the Amalfi Casbah, an
alley where women led pirates to chase them to the end, escaping as the pirates
were doused with boiling water.
Still the trade port expanded with trade with
the Orient, Maghreb, and the Mediterranean.
Toward the Cathedral, he told us about a small
river where the town left sewage, which was finally covered up and turned into
the square in front of the ancient cemetery, first built between 1266 and 88. This
became the sight for the Cathedral. The
Arabic and Byzantine influence can be felt looking at the Paradise Cloister and
inside.
Finishing
dinner, we made our way back to the sea, the sun setting into the distance. A
crazy bus ride careening toward home.
A
quiet day ahead before we made our way across the island for the final stretch of
the trip.
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