|Images of the Nuroghelosa and the little one taking in|
Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec and the masters of Montmartre.
Our last day at Agriturismo Casa Marmida, I had a walk around the farm to say goodbye to some of the pigs, dogs, donkeys, billy goats, and a puppy whose greeted me every day. Funny how the sounds become a part of you, even after just a couple of days.
Today, we’re making our way East. But we don’t have too many plans, beyond lunch in Nuoro.
I love seeing the landscapes, the trees, the farmers, the landscape. It feels like Joshua Tree out there. We make our way between the moderns and the ancients through island. The Greeks called the island, ichnusa, their word for footprint. Today, it’s the name for the local beer. Wandering in the footsteps of so many other travelers and people, we journey East.
Funny how those moods follow us. We wanted to see the Giants of Mont'e Prama, the ancient stone created by the here. They were discovered in March 1974, near Mont'e Prama, Today, they livs in museums throughout the island.
I’m drawn to see a few.
A sign points to Nuroghelosa of Abbasanta, one of the nuraghe throughout the land from 2000 to 1600 BC.
“They were a non-hierarchical society, building this nuraghe all over the island. Theses were spaces for community. But they were overrun by the Phoenicians, the people from Cypress, and eventually the Romans,” notes the woman selling coffee inside.
We walk into the stone foundations. It feels like a mystery. Like the Mayas in Mexico and the indigenous people of Ireland, but we knew little about these people, who they were. Still, the people of Sardinia are their descendants, like many of us, are descendants of the Neanderthals.
Finishing the tour, we continue our drive East to Nuoro in central-eastern Sardinia, off the slopes of the Monte Ortobene.
Arriving the city feels empty. It’s a Sunday. Much is closed. The streets are filled with graffiti against fascism and military bases, “No Basi”
We find one little restaurant open and explore a bit, making our way to the arts quarter for a show about the Belle Epoque at Museum of Art Nuoro on Via Satta. Its full of the Mucha posts and lithographs we fell in love with the summer before in Prague and Paris, images of charactors from the demi monde.
Later, we wander looking for the House of Grazia Deledda. Its too much to find it.
Her words are posted all over the city.
Her most famous novel is Cosmina:
Cosima is the novel-autobiography of Grazia Deledda. The novel narrates the life of a young girl from the Sardinian province, who tries to crown her often opposed dream of becoming a writer. In Cosima we are presented the dreams of the writer herself, her humiliations, her literary failures and the first successes, but we are also told about the world of the years of her childhood and early youth, that ancient and rustic world, populated by places and characters of a Sardinia of other times; a photograph in sepia of a world and in particular of a society that no longer exists today.
Leaving we make our way to Lotzorai and the Lemon House we will call home for the next few days.