We saw it our first day here -a green island across the water.
Myths seem to emanate from the space:
Calypso and her song,
Richard the Lionhearted finishing his second crusade.
A ten minute ferry ride from the port of Dubrovnik, it's another world,
blue green water in the distance, along the Adriatic sea.
It splashed me as I walked to the front of the boat.
Arriving at the island, the water and rocks seemed to dance and lull us to join them.
We just started walking along the wooded trail.
Cicada nymphs seemed to be hatching, their song filled the air.
Onward to the Dead Sea, we walked to a small inlet, stopping to take in the views, everyone swimming.
It's glorious and sexy, no wonder, Odysseus was thought to have landed here, delaying his return for seven years.
Crawling out to the rocks, we swim through the blue waters.
And nap under the olive trees, dreaming of a crumbling monastery and the curse of this place that the Benedictine monks put on those who followed.
UP and down the trails we hike, past that crumbling monastery.
Back to the rocks, we watch the ferry coming and going, docking and leaving every half hour, not quite ready to go back ourselves.
The little one reading, Caroline napping, the blue green water crashing on the rocks,
Calypso calling in the distance.
And we make it back into the water.
Floating on our backs, we don’t even need to swim.
“Ben, come back,” says Caroline.
“If you float any further away, you will be in Italy.”
Its ok to float, connected and separated from all.
I keep on floating.
Our ferry is returning in the distance.
I look up.
Can’t find my way back.
But I gradually do.
We run to the ferry, jumping on, for the ten minute ride.
Back in the Old City, I sit in the square across from Orlando.
“We have no idea how many perished there,” says my amiable bartender, bringing me a beer, referring to Goli Otok, the less welcoming island where prisoners and enemies of the state perished under Tito.
We are no closer to understanding the mysteries of this place or why it all fell apart.
For a day and a night and sunset and a swim in the water, it's all ok.